How To Prevent Split Hooves

Horse hooves are much like human fingernails: they grow from the cuticle and harden into hooves. If there is a disruption in the cuticle so that tissue can not grow, the nail/hoof will not be produced. If the crack in a hoof is a temporary problem, it should grow out with adequate shoeing. However, if it appears to be permanent/repetitive you need to address the underlying cause. It is possible that a horse with a permanently split hoof has a damaged cuticle - in which case no hoof will ever grow in that area, but it is more likely to be a temporary effect.

Some schools of thought think that wet conditions make a horse more prone to split hooves; others think that dry conditions will make the hoof crack; and others still think that frequent changes from wet to dry will promote hoof cracking. I do know that Appaloosa's are known more than most other breeds for dry hooves - so perhaps this suggests that dry conditions are to blame.

If you are sure that your horse has no underlying health complaints and that his diet is sufficient, the the two most important ways of treating split hooves are shoeing and supplementation - in which case you are doing everything right. It is also sometimes recommended to have the shoes reset once a month. In terms of supplementation, biotin is a widely used supplement for promoting good hoof growth - which is why Horseshoer's Secret will be working well for you.

What Causes the "Slobbers" In Horses?

Excessive salivation in an otherwise healthy horse is actually nothing to worry about and is, in most cases, a response to chemical irritation. Some medications will have this effect and in Spring and Summer many horse owners will be familiar with the symptoms of "slobbers" (also called "Slaframine poisoning"). In most cases, this salivation is caused by a fungus called Rhizoctonia leguminicola which produces the mycotoxin slaframine. This fungus most commonly affects clover and you will notice a change from green leaves to gray or even black. The bitter taste of these leaves is what irritates horses' mouths.

If you are sure that your pasture has no infected clover, it is possible that this case of the "slobbers" is being caused by a mechanical irritation, such as plants with tiny barbs - for example little barley, foxtail millet and hedge mustard. Only if your horse suffers from other symptoms such as lack of appetite or lethargy should excessive salivation be cause for concern.

Q: Why do some dogs bite?

A: There are many reasons why a dog bites. Dogs bite out of fear or to protect their territory or to establish their dominance over the person bitten. Some owners mistakenly teach their dogs that biting is an acceptable form of play behavior. And every year a number of newborn infants die when they are bitten by dogs who see them as "prey." Because dog bites occur for a variety of reasons, many components of responsible dog ownership—including proper socialization, supervision, humane training, sterilization, and safe confinement—are necessary to prevent biting.

Q: Which dogs most commonly bite? Are some breeds more likely to bite than others?

A: The breeds most commonly involved in both bite injuries and fatalities changes from year to year and from one area of the country to another, depending on the popularity of the breed. Although genetics do play some part in determining whether a dog will bite, other factors such as whether the animal is spayed or neutered, properly socialized, supervised, humanely trained, and safely confined play significantly greater roles. Responsible dog ownership of all breeds is the key to dog bite prevention.

Can Dogs Be Fed Carrots?

It is an excellent idea to supplement your dog's diet with fresh vegetables, and especially in substitution for a chew. Many dogs like carrots, and there is nothing harmful about providing the odd raw carrot. Their diet, as in humans, should consist of a lot of different things in moderation. Your dog can eat any vegetables that humans eat, provided that they are in moderation. A little left over vegetables from the family meal the night before are an excellent addition to your dog's meal.

Wait for more questions and answers

Horse behavior
Horse behavior is best understood from the perspective that horses are prey animals with a well-developed fight-or-flight instinct. Through selective breeding, some breeds of horses have been bred to be quite docile, particularly certain large draft horses. On the other hand, most light horse riding breeds were developed for speed, agility, alertness and endurance; building on natural qualities that extended from their wild ancestors.
The instincts of horses can be used to human advantage to create a bond between human and horse. These techniques vary, but are part of the art of horse training.
Horses as herd animals
Horses are highly social herd animals that prefer to live in a group. Like all creatures, equine social behavior developed to help the species survive.
There also is a dominance hierarchy in any herd. This behavior pattern also applies to their interrelationship with humans. A horse that respects the human as a "herd member" who is higher in the social order will behave in a more appropriate manner towards all humans than a horse that has been allowed to engage in dominant behavior over humans.
Horses are able to form companionship attachments not only to their own species, but with other animals, including humans. In fact, many domesticated horses will become anxious, flighty and hard to manage if they are isolated. Horses kept in near-complete isolation, particularly in a closed stable where they cannot see other animals may require a stable companion such as a cat, goat or even a small pony or donkey to provide company and reduce stress.
When anxiety over separation occurs while a horse is being handled by a human, the horse is described as "herd-bound". However, through proper training, horses learn to be comfortable away from other horses, often because they learn to trust a human handler, essentially ranking humans as a dominant member of a "herd."
Herd behavior in the wild
Feral and wild horse herds are usually made up of several separate small bands who share a given territory. Each band is led by a mare who is dominant in the hierarchy, called the "dominant mare," the "lead mare" or the "boss mare." The band contains additional mares, their foals, and immature horses of both sexes. There is usually a single "herd" or "lead" stallion, though occasionally a few less-dominant males may remain on the fringes of the group.[1]
The makeup of bands shifts over time as young animals are driven out of the band they were born into and join other bands, or as young stallions challenge older males for dominance. However, in a given closed ecosystem such as the isolated refuges in which most wild horses live today, to maintain genetic diversity the minimum size for a sustainable wild horse or burro population is 150-200 animals.[2]
Hierarchical structure
Survival dictates that the herd members ultimately cooperate and stick together. As with many animals that live in large groups, establishment of a stable hierarchy or "pecking order" is important to smooth group functioning. Most young horses in the wild are allowed to stay with the herd until sometime in their yearling or 2-year old year, when they reach full sexual maturity. Studies of wild herds have shown that the herd stallion will usually drive out both young colts and fillies. Experts who study wild horses theorize that this may be an instinct that prevents inbreeding, so that the herd stallion does not mate with his own female offspring. The fillies usually join another band in fairly short order, and the colts driven out from various herds usually join together for safety in small "bachelor" groups until those who are able establish dominance over an older stallion in another herd.[3]
Role of the lead mare
Contrary to traditional portrayals of the herd stallion as the "ruler" of a "harem" of females, the actual leader of a wild or feral herd is the alpha or dominant mare, commonly known as the "boss mare" or "lead mare." She is usually one of the more mature animals, responsible for the overall safety of the herd, familiar with the terrain and resources available.
Role of the stallion
The edge of the herd is the domain of the herd stallion, who must fight off both predators and other males. When the herd travels, the stallion brings up the rear, watching for predators and driving straggling herd members on, keeping the group together. During mating season, stallions tend to act more aggressively, in order to keep the mares from straying off. However, most of the time, the stallion is fairly relaxed, spending much of his time "guarding" the herd not by herding the mares around, but by scent-marking manure piles and urination spots in order to make clear his position as herd stallion.[4]
By living on the periphery of the herd, exposed to weather, predators, and challenges from other stallions, the herd stallion endures a somewhat vulnerable existence. He is exposed to more risks than any other herd member and can be replaced by a stronger successor at any time. Interestingly, a herd stallion will occasionally tolerate one young stallion to live at the edge of the herd, possibly as a sort of designated successor, even though the young horse will eventually gain mastery over the older stallion and claim the herd.
Ratio of stallions and mares
Biologically, and depending on the physical environment available to a herd in the wild, there is only a need for one stallion for every 10 to 20 mares, though most bands are smaller than this. Domesticated stallions, with careful human management, often "cover" more mares in a year than is possible in the wild. Traditionally, Thoroughbred stud farms limited stallions to breeding between 40 and 60 mares a year. Today, by carefully breeding mares only when at the peak of their Estrous cycle, a few thoroughbred stallions have "covered" over 200 mares per year. With use of technologies such as artificial insemination one stallion could sire thousands of offspring annually, though in actual practice, economic considerations usually limit the number of foals produced.[5]
Domesticated stallion behavior
Some horse breeders keep horses in semi-natural conditions, allowing a single stallion to run with a group of mares. Young stallions who are not of breeding age live in a separate "bachelor herd." While this has advantages of less intensive labor for human caretakers, and full time turnout may be psychologically healthy for the horses, pasture breeding presents a risk of injury to valuable breeding stock, both stallions and mares, particularly when unfamiliar animals are added to the herd. It is more often seen on farms with closed herds; only one or a few stallions with a stable mare herd and few, if any, outside mares.
More often, mature domesticated stallions are commonly kept by themselves in a stable or small paddock with a strong, high fence that prevents escape. To avoid stable vices associated with isolation, some stallions, though not all, do well when stabled with a non-horse companion, such as a gelded donkey or a goat. While many domesticated stallions become too aggressive to tolerate the close presence of any other male horse without fighting, some tolerate a gelding as a companion, particularly one that has a very calm, unflappable temperament. Other stallions may tolerate the close presence of an immature and thus less dominant stallion.
While stallions and mares often compete together at horse shows and in horse races, stallions generally must be kept away from close contact with mares, both to avoid unintentional or unplanned matings, but also to minimize their instincts to fight one another for dominance when in the presence of mares. When horses are lined up for placing at shows, handlers keep stallions at least a horse's length from any other animal and do not allow their horses to touch noses with any other animals. Stallions can be taught to ignore any mares or other stallions that are in close proximity while they are working.
However, stallions do live peacefully in bachelor herds in the wild and in natural management settings. Domesticated stallions are still herd animals, and some farms feel that carefully managed social contact benefits stallions. Well-tempered stallions who will be kept together for a long period of time may be stabled in closer proximity, though this method of stabling is generally used only by experienced stable managers. An example of this are the stallions of the Spanish Riding School, who travel, train and are stabled close together. In these settings more dominant animals are kept apart by stabling a young or less dominant stallion in the stall between them. Sometimes a stallion raised in isolation from other horses cannot be stabled in this fashion at all due to aggressive behavior.
Dominance in domesticated herds
Because domestication of the horse usually requires stallions to be isolated from other horses, either mares or geldings may become dominant in a domestic herd. It is common for older animals to be dominant, though old and weak animals may lose their rank in the herd. There are also studies suggesting that a foal will "inherit" or perhaps imprint dominance behavior from its dam, and at maturity seek to obtain the same rank in a later herd that its mother held when the horse was young.
In recent studies of domesticated horses, new evidence indicates that horses appear to benefit from a strong female presence in the herd. Groupings of all geldings, or herds where a gelding is dominant over the rest of the herd (for example, if the mares in the herd are quite young or of low status), may be more anxious as a group and less relaxed than those where a mare is dominant.[6]
Communication
Horses communicate in various ways, including vocalizations such as nickering, squealing or whinnying; touch, through mutual grooming or nuzzling; smell; and body language. Horses use ear position, neck and head height, movement, and foot stomping or tail swishing to communicate with each other. Discipline is also maintained in the herd first through body language and gestures, then, if needed, through physical contact such as biting, kicking, nudging, or other means of forcing a misbehaving herd member to move. Horses and humans
Horses are creatures of habit and have excellent memories, which make consistent training extremely important to the horse. Untrained young horses, even with top bloodlines, can be bought for relatively little money compared to those with training. Once a horse is started under saddle and demonstrates that it is trainable, ridable and has some athletic talent for its work, the price easily triples.
To a wild horse, humans are usually viewed as potential predators. However, horses are also innately curious and may investigate any creature that is interesting but not threatening.
Any domesticated horse with some experience with humans usually views people as generally harmless objects of curiosity worth at least minor notice, especially if they know that humans may bring food or treats. Rarely will any domestic horse become truly vicious unless it has been spoiled or abused by humans, though many stallions have a great deal of naturally aggressive, dominant behavior that requires that they be managed only by knowledgeable handlers. However, any horse is a large animal that retains some wild instincts, so can react unpredictably by running, biting, striking, or kicking. Thus humans must always be alert around horses because they can accidentally harm people.
The ability of humans to work in cooperation with the horse is based on both the natural curiosity of the horse and the strong social bonds that horses have with each other. Horses do not like to be separated from their herd, because to be alone is to be exposed to predators on all sides. Also, in a herd, less dominant horses tend to gravitate toward the most mature and confident members. Therefore, many horse training principles are based upon having the horse accept a human as the dominant herd member. Ideally this is not done by force, but by the horse developing trust in the ability of the human and confidence that the human will be a responsible "herd leader."
Horses are also adapted to covering large amounts of territory and must have a certain boldness to do so. This willingness to consider new things can also be used by a human trainer to adapt the horse's behavior to an extraordinary range of activities that are well outside the range of instinctive horse behavior, including acts considered naturally dangerous by the average horse such as bullfighting, jumping off cliffs, diving into water, jumping through a ring of fire, or walking into a modern television studio, complete with enclosed space, bright lights, and tremendous noise.
People who train horses first have to educate them that some normal herd behavior is inappropriate around humans. For example, biting and "shadow boxing" (rearing, striking) that is common play among young horses, colts in particular, could be injurious or fatal to people. Other instinctive traits, such as running away when frightened, bucking off anything that lands on a horse's back (like a mountain lion or other predator), or never entering a small enclosed area, also have to be overcome before the horse is useful to humans.
Even when trained, most horses will still test boundaries, at least mildly, and some horses with dominant personalities will openly challenge a weak or inexperienced handler. For example, if handled with incompetence or abuse, a horse may ignore its training and attempt to nip, bite, kick, refuse to be led, or try other ways to challenge human dominance. Without consistent handling, some horses, especially young ones, will revert to their untrained ways. Sleep patterns
Horses are able to sleep both standing up and lying down. Lying down makes an animal more vulnerable to predators.[7][8] The horse engages the stay apparatus in the hind legs by shifting its hip position to lock the patella in place. Unlike humans, horses do not need a solid, unbroken period of sleep time. They obtain needed sleep by means of many short periods of rest. [10] Horses require approximately two and a half hours of sleep, on average, in a 24-hour period.
Horse Training Starts The Day You Get Your Horse
If you have an excitement to study all you can about horse training, then you will want to know about a horse training website that covers all aspects of horsemanship. You must create an atmosphere where the horse can discover on its own, aside from the horse training that you give it. Taking the time to lay definite fundamentals will also mean that you will be training a horse that is willing to please you, that is far easier to train down the track.
Whether you realize it or not, you are training the horse by just riding it. Almost every incorrect action of a horse is caused by fear, anticipation or negligence. Sooner or later you will be able to train the horse to stay calm and relaxed as you run at him from any approach and the horse will stay calm and relaxed because they have thought about the circumstances and realised that they are not going to die.
If you know you will ultimately have more time to ride then you can keep your horse going well by doing some quick and easy to follow horse training exercises.
There are many horse training tips you can utilise and w suggest a slowly but surely approach to get your horse comfortable with you being the boss and controlling any situations you are in.

Pet Behaviour Problems

Pet behaviour problems can be challenging at the best of times and in many cases, unfortunately, can lead to the pet being removed from the household. This is a sad and, in most cases, unnecessary step as many pet behavioural problems can be resolved.
The biggest obstacle to resolving these problems is usually a lack of understanding of the cause of the unwanted behaviour. If we can understand what sparks off the unwanted behaviour then we are half way to a solution.
As humans our biggest problem when it comes to dealing with pet behaviour problems is that we often impose a human solution on an animal problem. For example, your dog might start chewing your slippers. You whack the dog on the nose with a newspaper to discourage the behaviour. That might work but you stand an equal chance of the dog viewing your action as paying attention to it and so every time it wants your attention, it grabs your slippers. Training a pet is also an integral part of preventing or correcting pet behaviour problems. For many pet owners unacceptable pet behaviour problems such as aggression, excessive or inappropriate barking, biting and so on are problems that can easily sour the human-pet bond. If the training is done in a humane way, it enriches the human - pet relationship in many ways and minimises potential conflict by reducing undesirable behaviours in the pet. This is the win/win result that everyone should be striving for.
Understanding Dogs' Abilities
If we could teach a dog to draw and give the concept of a “God” it would draw “God” as a dog. Many so called dog trainers and countless owners have a mistaken perception of what really constitutes a dog, and often have expectations far above the animal’s actual ability.
Some people imagine that their dogs are little people in fur coats, and that their pets are able to understand complex thought patterns, and comprehend our moral and ethical codes; they assume a dog’s level of understanding is on a par with our own. Animals work on drive levels and instinct. It is vital to keep in mind that they do not have the capacity to comprehend the complex thought processes that bring us to understand human emotions, language, and behaviour.
There is a scientific name for this “Anthropomorphism”: The textbook definition of anthropomorphism is “to assign emotions or thought patterns to animals or objects, which are incapable of achieving such dimensions”.

I believe that anthropomorphism is one of the main reasons we find immense difficulty communicating successfully with our pets. Projection is a psychological phenomenon in which one projects their feelings upon others, animals, or objects. This is useful in everyday life for it takes the guesswork out of reality. Dogs are capable of linking ideas together, but are totally incapable of linking actions that are separated by time. If for example a dog makes a mess on the floor during your absence, there is no point in telling the dog off or rubbing its nose in it, which to my mind is barbaric, you wouldn’t rub a child’s nose in a soiled nappy? and even if you did, what learning process would the child get?
The dog’s brain cannot link the action with any passage of time. A dog’s brain is much smaller than a human, especially in the upper part of the brain called the cerebrum - the portion of the brain associated with intellectual functions such as speech, memory, consciousness, and logical and emotional thought.
They cannot understand human language. It is far more important to use sound patterns, intonation, facial and body language as a form of communication. A dog wants to please and all learning should be based on positive reinforcement. We should be aware that a large part of a dog’s brain is occupied with sensory activity, particularly the interpretation of scent.
Instinct?
Dogs natural instinct plays a vital role and often it is difficult to understand why so few dog owners cannot differentiate between instinct and intelligence. Instinct is an urge from within. Instinct makes a dog act in a certain way and has no connection with intelligence.
Dogs first instinct is to survive, when a pup is born he squirms about until he finds a teat and then sucks it. The maternal instinct tells the female to clean up the foetal membrane, and in the first 3 or 4 weeks to also eat the pup’s faeces this is to keep the nest clean and dry and to stop predators locating the and killing the pups. Most instincts provide pleasure to the dog, and because it associates the action with pleasure, the instinct grows stronger with usage. This is the basis of all training to harness your pet’s instincts and shape it’s behaviour patterns, so that it is acceptable to what we perceive as our expectations.
Instinct can be strengthened, weakened or even diverted. A dog with an obsession for chasing cyclists can be controlled by shaping its behaviour, obedience training and by providing alternative outlets for its energy. The same if a dog is corrected the first time he chases another dog or a jogger it may give up the idea, but if it is allowed to chase joggers or dogs then this instinct becomes much stronger and can then become a problem behaviour that is difficult or even impossible to cure.
Basic Training
To start to teach your dog your language, you need to combine the words with an action that shows the dog what you want, and some reinforcement - either positive or negative. Say your dog’s name. Your dog should ALWAYS have a pleasant experience when he hears his name - NEVER unpleasant. Some people create a new “Bad Dog” name to use for those bad dog times. To teach the dog his name, position your dog close enough to touch, preferably on a leash so he doesn’t move away. Say the dogs name cheerfully and give his ear or leash a tug toward you, or move his muzzle in your direction. When the dog looks in your direction, immediately use your “Good Dog” voice and praise and stroke your dog on the head or chest and start by giving your dog a treat, practice this until looking at you happens without the tug or treat, continue to practice for the dog’s entire life! It reinforces the communication link between the owner and pet.
Teach other words the same way. Simple one word commands work best. Say the dog’s name (to get his attention - remember that communication link!), follow with a command, and then SHOW him what you want. PRAISE IMMEDIATELY when the action is completed - even if you MADE him do it! Eventually you dog will learn to respond to the command without needing to be shown - but you should never forget to praise.
Sometimes words are not enough when communicating with a dog. Since dogs must learn what each word means, all the other “extra” words are just a bunch of “Blah, Blah” to them! Remember the Gary Larson cartoon that shows an owner scolding his dog, Ginger, then shows what the dog hears “Ginger, blah, blah, blah, Ginger, blah...”

About Dog Training Collars You will find dozens of dog training collars when searching for dog training supplies.
There are several types of dog training collars because each is used for a different kind of training.
Common types of dog collars are choke collars, electronic collars, no-bark collars and harnesses.
Dog training collars are different from regular every day collars because they help you discipline your dog when needed. For example choke collars are used by gently tugging on your dog to keep it from misbehaving.
Electronic collars are also used with a remote control to keep your dog out of trouble or from barking in unneeded situations. A light and harmless electric pulse is sent to your dog through the collar when pressing the button on the remote control.
Remember also that training should be fun, do not overuse dog training collars and make sure that your dog is comfortable and does not become afraid.
In many cases certain kinds of dog training collars are better used by a professional dog trainer.
Do some research and find out which dog training collar is best for your dog and remember to have fun while training.
Dogtra Training Collars
Dogtra Training Collars Quickly Curb Unwanted Behaviors
Dogtra is setting the standard for electronic dog training collars. They offer a wide variety of dog shock collars to assist in sport dog training or regular obedience training. Their units will ensure a fast and efficient training program and are essential for hunting or agility training programs.
Before you buy Dogtra Training Collars or purchase Dogtra Training Collars from a competitor, be sure to read our Dogtra Training Collars reviews and checkout their various Dogtra Training Collars prices. We will gladly beat any competing websites Dogtra Training Collars price. Our Low Price Guarantee states if you can find a Dogtra Training Collars cost that is better then ours we will match it 100% of the time even if you order Dogtra Training Collars before you locate the better Dogtra Training Collars price.

Puppy House Training
Follow This Proven Potty Training Method
The arrival of a new puppy is cause for great excitement in any household. It soon becomes clearly apparent that puppy house training is an urgent priority and the number one thing to teach our new housemates.
You'll find lots of puppy house training articles and theories across the net and in books everywhere, but I've got a method that has never let me down. My veterinarian first told me about this potty training method which could be summed up as follows:

Closely monitor your puppy to prevent messy mistakes, enthusiastically reward desired behavior every time, and if a mistake happens work out where you went wrong.

Puppy House Training - General Rules
Owning a puppy is a big commitment for all family members, especially in the first few days and weeks.
Puppy potty training is not a race, the key is to prevent mistakes and establish good habits early - dogs are creatures of habit.
Opening your back door every couple of hours to let your puppy out will not house train your puppy.
A puppy's natural instinct is to keep their bedding/sleeping area clean - the potty training method outlined below utilizes this knowledge to our advantage.
No matter how attentive and diligent you are in the house training process there is bound to be the odd slip up. My puppy house training strategy involves close supervision and confinement to start with but only so we can allow our puppies greater freedom and much sooner.
Understand your puppy's capabilities and be realistic, keep in mind you are dealing with a very young animal. As a general rule a puppy can hold on an hour for every month of his/her age, plus another hour. Develop a food and water schedule. Each day feed at the same time (never close to bed time) and take away your dogs water bowl before you go to bed (don't forget to put it back first thing in the morning!).
Physical Punishment Is Never An
Option In The House Training Process!
Puppy House Training - Step by Step Process
Equipment you'll need:
You can read a detailed article I wrote here - puppy crate training
You can also set up a small pen area with a comfortable dog bed, fresh water and a couple of chew toys (like a food stuffed kong toy). Do not put a doggy toilet in this pen area.
In addition to your 60 minute schedule it is important to take your puppy outside after each meal time (most puppies go to the potty within 15 minutes of eating).
That's the puppy house training process, follow it consistently and I'm sure you'll experience pleasing results. Place the indoor doggy toilet at the opposite side to the bedding in your puppy's living area. When you arrive home remove the toilet area inside and follow the potty training method detailed above.
Puppy House Training Process - Teaching Your Puppy To "ask" To Go Outside.
If you aren't able to install a doggy door it is handy if you teach your dog the right way to let you know he wants to go outside. Do this by hanging a Poochie-Bell on a piece of string attached to the door handle (at the level of your puppy's nose).
Follow the puppy house training schedule as detailed above but now add the following: Each time you get to the door to go outside give the bell a bit of a shake and say "go potty". Do this every time you take your puppy outside to the toilet for a week or two.
You want your puppy to give it a nudge, if he does give lots of enthusiastic praise and quickly open the door. If your puppy doesn't nudge the bell after standing at the door for 10 seconds, shake the bell yourself while saying "go potty".
Eventually your dog will make his way to the door and tap the bell every time he needs to go outside to the toilet.
Helpful Dog Training Tips

It is important to start training a dog between six and eight weeks of age. If your dog is older and has yet to be trained do not worry because it is "never too late to teach a dog a new trick."
Many dog owners are curious as to the best way to go about dog training. There are several dog training tips that dog owners should be aware of. A very important dog training tip is that the owner must use positive reinforcement.
When training a dog it is good to reward the dog with both praise and dog treats. The dog should be awarded a treat each time the dog performs a command correctly. This will reinforce positive behavior.
Another dog training tip is to give firm but friendly commands. Give commands such as come and heel in a friendly voice. When your dog has an accident in the house it is important to not rub your dog’s nose into the accident. When training a dog it is important to not punish the dog. Punishing a dog during training will only cause the dog to be afraid of you. One of the most valuable tips to follow when training a dog is to use consistent training techniques.
Dogs are wonderful companions and usually very easy to train. When your dog follows a command give the dog lots of praise and a dog treat. This is the easiest and most effective way to train a dog. Remember to enjoy the time you spend with your dog as this time forms a bond that is unbreakable.

SUMMARY
The aim of this Regulation is to establish a standardised procedure for authorising the placing on the market and the use of feed additives and to lay down rules for the labelling and supervision of these substances.
Scope
These rules apply to all feed additives * except processing aids * and veterinary medicinal products as defined by Directive 2001/82/CE , with the exception of coccidiostats and histomonostats used as feed additives. This Regulation thus complements Community legislation prohibiting antibiotics by providing for the four antibiotic additives still on the market in the EU to be phased out as of January 2006: monensin sodium, salinomycin sodium, avilamycin and flavophospholipol.
Authorisation procedure
To be legally placed on the market and used, feed additives must be authorised by the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA). Applications are submitted to the Commission, which informs the Member States and forwards the application to the EFSA. The application must include certain information, such as the name and address of the applicant, a description of the method of production, manufacturing and intended uses of the additive, proposed conditions for placing the additive on the market, etc. In addition to this application, the applicant must send samples to the Community Reference Laboratory for analysis. The EFSA may ask for further information.
The additive is authorised only if the applicant can prove that:
the additive has a favourable effect on the characteristics of the feed to which it is added or on animal production;
the additive does not have a harmful effect on animal health, human health or the environment;
Based on the EFSA opinion, the Commission decides whether or not to authorise the additive. For products authorised under Directive 70/524/EEC, together with urea and derivatives, and any amino acid, salt of an amino acid or analogous substance listed in points 2.1, 3 and 4 of the Annex to Directive 82/471/EEC, an authorisation application in line with this Regulation must be submitted either one year before the expiry date of an authorisation given for a limited period pursuant to Directive 70/524/EEC, or seven years after the entry into force of this Regulation for additives authorised without a time limit or pursuant to Directive 82/471/EEC.
This Regulation contains provisions concerning the use of non-authorised additives for research purposes and provisions concerning the use of certain additives (in particular those produced from genetically modified organisms).
Persons using an authorised additive or placing it on the market are responsible for ensuring compliance with any conditions or restrictions imposed by the Commission.
Based on the EFSA opinion, the Commission may decide to amend, suspend or revoke an authorisation.
Information on additives
The additives are entered in a register made available to the public. They are allocated to one or more of the following categories: technological additives; sensory additives; nutritional additives; zootechnical additives; coccidiostats and histomonostats. Additives must be labelled clearly and indelibly and include certain information, including the specific name given to the additives upon authorisation and their identification number, the name and address of the person responsible for these particulars, the net weight or net volume of the additives, directions for use and any safety recommendations regarding use and, where applicable, the specific requirements mentioned in the authorisation.
Cats and Dogs Nutrition
Advances in veterinary medicine have resulted in vaccination programs that protect dogs and cats from many life-threatening diseases and in medical procedures that contribute to lengthened lifespans. Likewise, progress in the field of nutrition has generated an improved understanding of canine and feline dietetics and led to the development of well-balanced pet foods that contribute to long-term health and aid in the prevention of chronic disease.
Today's competitive market contains a vast array of foods, snacks, and nutritional supplements for dogs and cats. These products are sold in grocery stores, feed stores, pet shops, and veterinary hospitals. Products vary significantly in nutrient composition, availability, digestibility, palatability, physical form, flavor, and texture. Some foods are formulated to provide adequate nutrition throughout a pet's lifespan, while other foods have been marketed specifically for a particular stage of life or a specific disease state. This large selection of commercial products, combined with the periodic propagation of popular nutritional fads an fallacies, has resulted in much confusion among pet owners and companion animal professionals regarding the nutritional care of dogs and cats.
A basic understanding of the fundamental basics of nutrition is a necessary prerequisite for evaluating pet foods and making decisions about a pet's nutritional status. The term nutrition refers to the study of food and the nutrients and other components that it contains. Energy, water, carbohydrates, fats, proteins, vitamins, and minerals are examined in detail. Subsequent sections address the specific nutrient requirements of dogs and cats, the types and compositions of pet foods, feeding management throughout the life cycle, feeding problems, and the management of nutritionally-responsive diseases. Information contained in this section will enable pet owners, students and companion animal professionals to make informed decisions about the diets and nutritional health of dogs and cats throughout all stages of life.

Fish food
Fish food is plant or animal material intended for consumption by pet fish kept in aquariums or ponds. Fish foods normally contain macro nutrients, trace elements and vitamins necessary to keep captive fish in good health. Approximately 80% of fishkeeping hobbyists feed their fish exclusively prepared foods that most commonly are produced in flake, pellet or tablet form.[1]citation needed] Some fish foods also contain additives such as sex hormones or beta carotene or to artificially enhance the color of ornamental fish.
Dry foods
Flake food is a type of proprietary or artificially manufactured fish food consumed by a wide variety of tropical and saltwater fish and invertebrates. It is ideally suited to top dwellers and mid-water fish though numerous bottom dwelling species consume flake food once it has settled on the bottom. Flake food is baked to remove moisture and create the flaking, thus allowing for a longer shelf life.[citation needed]
Vacation food
Vacation foods — also known as "food blocks" — are designed to be placed inside the aquarium to forgo feeding while the owner is absent. These blocks release small amounts of food as they dissolve.[citation needed] Food blocks can be a good choice for smaller tropical fish, but can pollute the water.
Medicated fishfood
Medicated fishfood is a safe and effective methods to deliver medication to fish. One advantage is that medicated food does not contaminate the aquatic environment and also, unlike bath treatments, does not negatively affect fish, filtration and algae growth in the aquarium.
Freeze-dried and frozen fish diets
Freeze-dried and frozen fish foods were primarily developed for tropical and marine fish and are useful in providing variety to the diet or specialist feeding needs of some species.[citation needed] These include tubifex worms, mosquito larvae, bloodworms, water fleas (Daphnia and Cyclops spp.) along with brine shrimp (Artemia salina).
Live foods
Live fish food include earthworms, sludge worms, water fleas, bloodworms, and feeder fish. Food for larvae and young fish include infusoria (Protozoa and other microorganisms), newly hatched brine shrimp and microworms.These are the most preferred type of food for fishes,but are difficult to get. However, freeze dried forms of earthworms, tubifex etc.
Ingredients of quality fish food
Fish food should ideally provide the fish with fat (for energy) and amino acids (building blocks of proteins) and the fish food (whether flake or pellet) must be speedily digested in order to prevent build up of intestinal gas, renal failure and infections (such as swim bladder problems and dropsy) and to avoid aquarium pollution due to excessive ammonia. Aquatic diets for carnivores must contain vegetable matter such as spirulina.
Building block ingredients of fish food
Amino acids are the basic components of proteins. DL-Methionine, an essential amino acid from spinach, green peas, garlic and fish meal enhances the headgrowth of Lionhead goldfish.
• Fats that are broken down into fatty acids are the main source of energy in fish especially for the heart and skeletal muscles. Fats also assists in vitamin absorption. Carbohydrates, however, are not a superior energy source for fish over protein or fat but digestible carbohydrates do spare protein for tissue building.
Sources of fish food
Fish meal (protein source) have two basic types: (a) those produced from fishery wastes associated with the processing of fish for human consumption (such as salmon and tuna) and (b) those from specific fish (herring, menhaden and pollack) which are harvested solely for the purpose of producing fish meal.
The material to be made into shrimp meal is dried (sun-dried or by using a dryer) and then ground. Shrimp meal is a source of pigments that enhances the desirable color in the tissues of fish. It is also a secondary supplemental protein source for fish.
Squid meal is made from squid viscera portions from cannery plants including the eggs and testis. Squid Meal is a highly digestible protein source for fish which provides a full range of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and cholesterol (1.0-1.5%) of cholesterol suitable for fish fry and young fish.
Brine shrimp (adult Artemia) is a common food source for fish that are available in adult-form, as eggs or freeze-dried. Brine shrimp is a source of protein, carotene (a color enhancer) and acts as a natural laxative in fish digestive systems. Brine shrimps can also supply the fish with vegetable matter due to their consumption of algae.
Soybean meal is a high protein source for fish and has become a substitute for traditionally-used marine animal meals.
• Whole wheat (carbohydrates) is not the best source of energy in fish but is an excellent source of roughage for fish such as Goldfish and Koi.

Healthy Doggy Snack

Keeping a dog healthy is a challenge. Especially when dogs are prone to eating and sniffing at almost any kind of food. A dog is also prone to picking up ticks and fleas from the environment and other 'friendly' dogs and pets. The pet owner goes through pain and suffering when the beloved pet falls ill. A healthy and happy pet keeps the pet owner also happy and joyous.
Healthy food which is well balanced and contains essential nutrients is a must have for all pet dogs. This kind of food helps prevent illness and helps in all around development of the dog. It is not healthy to give a dog left overs as these left overs can contain fungus and toxic compounds which may be unhealthy for pets. Leftovers are not necessarily a balanced meal for the pet dog.
I give below a Dog Biscuit Recipe which is vegetarian. It is healthy and also helps prevent ticks in the dog.
To create this Super Doggie Veggie Biscuit, collect the following ingredients.

One garlic clove
60 grams margarine or butter.
150 grams whole wheat flour
60 grams grated cheese
60- 70 grams mixed chopped vegetables like beans, carrots, cabbage.
Milk

Now mix the grated cheese and margarine (butter) together in a mixing pan. To this mixture add the crushed garlic clove and mix thoroughly so that the garlic is spread evenly throughout the mixture. It is this, garlic which will help prevent ticks and flea infection in the fur of the dog.
Add the chopped vegetables to this mixture and then stir in the whole wheat flour. Stir well and add milk as required to form a a ball shape which stays together.
Now roll on a floured surface and cut into desired shapes. You may create circular biscuits or square ones as desired.
Keep Your Dog Healthy With the Best Dog Food
The majority of dog owners don't look too much into what their dog or puppy is eating, beyond getting food that is made for their breed. The problem is that many store bought foods are largely made up of filler rather than actual meat, so your dog might not be getting the nutrition it requires to stay healthy!
So how do you know whether a particular food is good enough for your dog? First of all, buying the cheapest option is probably not going to provide the best nutrition for your dog. You tend to get what you pay for with dog food, although not in every case.
In general, dog food should contain around 40-45% real meat. While a puppy is growing for example, you should buy foods specifically for puppies. Also remember that while treats are great for training, if they form a large part of your dog's diet it is likely your pet won't be getting the nutrition it requires.
It's also worth mentioning that like humans, dogs can be fussy!

In fish farming, nutrition is critical because feed represents 40-50% of the production costs. Fish nutrition has advanced dramatically in recent years with the development of new, balanced commercial diets that promote optimal fish growth and health. The development of new species-specific diet formulations supports the aquaculture (fish farming) industry as it expands to satisfy increasing demand for affordable, safe, and high-quality fish and seafood products.Prepared (artificial) Diets
Complete diets supply all the ingredients (protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, and minerals) necessary for the optimal growth and health of the fish. Most fish farmers use complete diets, those containing all the required protein (18-50%), lipid (10-25%), carbohydrate (15-20%), ash (<>2 double bonds), or c) highly unsaturated fatty acids (HUFA; > 4 double bonds). Marine fish oils are naturally high (>30%) in omega 3 HUFA, and are excellent sources of lipids for the manufacture of fish diets. Marine fish typically require n-3 HUFA for optimal growth and health, usually in quantities ranging from 0.5-2.0% of dry diet. Freshwater fish do not require the long chain HUFA, but often require an 18 carbon n-3 fatty acid, linolenic acid (18:3-n-3), in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 1.5% of dry diet. This fatty acid cannot be produced by freshwater fish and must be supplied in the diet. Many freshwater fish can take this fatty acid, and through enzyme systems elongate (add carbon atoms) to the hydrocarbon chain, and then further desaturate (add double bonds) to this longer hydrocarbon chain. Marine fish typically do not possess these elongation and desaturation enzyme systems, and require long chain n-3 HUFA in their diets. Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates (starches and sugars) are the most economical and inexpensive sources of energy for fish diets. Although not essential, carbohydrates are included in aquaculture diets to reduce feed costs and for their binding activity during feed manufacturing. Dietary starches are useful in the extrusion manufacture of floating feeds. Cooking starch during the extrusion process makes it more biologically available to fish.
In fish, carbohydrates are stored as glycogen that can be mobilized to satisfy energy demands. They are a major energy source for mammals, but are not used efficiently by fish. For example, mammals can extract about 4 kcal of energy from 1 gram of carbohydrate, whereas fish can only extract about 1.6 kcal from the same amount of carbohydrate. Up to about 20% of dietary carbohydrates can be used by fish.
Vitamins
Vitamins are organic compounds necessary in the diet for normal fish growth and health. They often are not synthesized by fish, and must be supplied in the diet.
The two groups of vitamins are water-soluble and fat-soluble. Water-soluble vitamins include: the B vitamins, choline, inositol, folic acid, pantothenic acid , biotin and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The fat-soluble vitamins include A vitamins, retinols (responsible for vision); the D vitamins, cholecaciferols (bone integrity); E vitamins, the tocopherols (antioxidants); and K vitamins such as menadione (blood clotting, skin integrity). Scoliosis (bent backbone symptom) and dark coloration may result from deficiencies of ascorbic acid and folic acid vitamins, respectively.
Minerals
Minerals are inorganic elements necessary in the diet for normal body functions. They can be divided into two groups (macro-minerals and micro-minerals) based on the quantity required in the diet and the amount present in fish. Micro-minerals (trace minerals) are required in small amounts as components in enzyme and hormone systems. Fish can absorb many minerals directly from the water through their gills and skin, allowing them to compensate to some extent for mineral deficiencies in their diet.
Energy and Protein
Physiological fuel values are used to calculate and balance available energy values in prepared diets. To create an optimum diet, the ratio of protein to energy must be determined separately for each fish species. Excess energy relative to protein content in the diet may result in high lipid deposition. Because fish feed to meet their energy requirements, diets with excessive energy levels may result in decreased feed intake and reduced weight gain. Similarly, a diet with inadequate energy content can result in reduced weight gain because the fish cannot eat enough feed to satisfy their energy requirements for growth. Properly formulated prepared feeds have a well-balanced energy to protein ratio.
Feed Types
Commercial fish diets are manufactured as either extruded (floating or buoyant) or pressure-pelleted (sinking) feeds. Both floating or sinking feed can produce satisfactory growth, but some fish species prefer floating, others sinking. Shrimp, for example, will not accept a floating feed, but most fish species can be trained to accept a floating pellet.
Usually, it is advantageous to feed a floating (extruded) feed, because the farmer can directly observe the feeding intensity of his fish and adjust feeding rates accordingly. Determining whether feeding rates are too low or too high is important in maximizing fish growth and feed use efficiency.
Feed is available in a variety of sizes ranging from fine crumbles for small fish to large (1/2 inch or larger) pellets. The pellet size should be approximately 20-30% of the size of the fish species mouth gape. Feeding too small a pellet results in inefficient feeding because more energy is used in finding and eating more pellets. Select the largest sized feed the fish will actively eat.
Feeding Rate, Frequency, and Timing
Feeding rates and frequencies are in part a function of fish size. Small larval fish and fry need to be fed a high protein diet frequently and usually in excess. Small fish have a high energy demand and must eat nearly continuously and be fed almost hourly. Feeding small fish in excess is not as much of a problem as overfeeding larger fish because small fish require only a small amount of feed relative to the volume of water in the culture system.
As fish grow, feeding rates and frequencies should be lowered, and protein content reduced. However, rather than switching to a lower protein diet, feeding less allows the grower to use the same feed (protein level) throughout the grow-out period, thereby simplifying feed inventory and storage.
Feeding fish is labor-intensive and expensive. Feeding frequency is dependent on labor availability, farm size, and the fish species and sizes grown. Large catfish farms with many ponds usually feed only once per day because of time and labor limitations, while smaller farms may feed twice per day. Generally, growth and feed conversion increase with feeding frequency. In indoor, intensive fish culture systems, fish may be fed as many as 5 times per day in order to maximize growth at optimum temperatures.
Many factors affect the feeding rates of fish. These include time of day, season, water temperature, dissolved oxygen levels, and other water quality variables. For example, feeding fish grown in ponds early in the morning when the lowest dissolved oxygen levels occur is not advisable. In contrast, in recirculating aquaculture systems where oxygen is continuously supplied, fish can be fed at nearly any time. During the winter and at low water temperatures, feeding rates of warmwater fishes in ponds decline and feeding rates should decrease proportionally.
Feed acceptability, palatability and digestibility vary with the ingredients and feed quality. Fish farmers pay careful attention to feeding activity in order to help determine feed acceptance, calculate feed conversion ratios and feed efficiencies, monitor feed costs, and track feed demand throughout the year.
Published feeding rate tables are available for most commonly cultured fish species. Farmers can calculate optimum feeding rates based on the average size in length or weight and the number of fish in the tank, raceway, or pond (see Hinshaw 1999, and Robinson et al. 1998). Farmed fish typically are fed 1-4% of their body weight per day.
Automatic Feeders
Fish can be fed by hand, by automatic feeders, and by demand feeders. Many fish farmers like to hand feed their fish each day to assure that the fish are healthy, feeding vigorously, and exhibiting no problems. Large catfish farms often drive feed trucks with compressed air blowers to distribute (toss) feed uniformly throughout the pond.
There are a variety of automatic (timed) feeders ranging in design from belt feeders that work on wind-up springs, to electric vibrating feeders, to timed feeders that can be programmed to feed hourly and for extended periods. Whenever a fish strikes the trigger, a small amount of feed is released into the tank. Feed Conversion and Efficiency Calculations:
Because feed is expensive, feed conversion ratio (FCR) or feed efficiency (FE) are important calculations for the grower. FCR is calculated as the weight of the feed fed to the fish divided by the weight of fish growth. For example, if fish are fed 10 pounds of feed and then exhibit a 5 pound weight gain, the FCR is 10/ 5 = 2.0. Fish are not completely efficient (FEs of 100 %, FCRs of 1.0). When fed 5 pounds of feed, fish cannot exhibit 5 pounds of growth because they must use some of the energy in feed for metabolic heat, digestive processing, respiration, nerve impulses, salt balance, swimming, and other living activities. Feed conversion ratios will vary among species, sizes and activity levels of fish, environmental parameters and the culture system used.
Feed Care and Storage
Commercial fish feed is usually purchased by large farms as bulk feed in truckloads and stored in outside bins. Smaller farms often buy prepared feed in 50-pound bags. Vitamins, proteins, and lipids are especially heat sensitive, and can be readily denatured by high storage temperatures. High moisture stimulates mold growth and feed decomposition. Avoid unnecessary handling and damage to the feed bags which may break the pellets and create „fines¾ which may not be consumed by fish.
Older feed should be used first, and all feed should be regularly inspected for mold prior to feeding. All moldy feed should be discarded immediately. Medicated Feeds
When fish reduce or stop feeding, it is a signal to look for problems. Off-feed behavior is the first signal of trouble such as disease or water quality deterioration in the fish growing system. Relatively few therapeutic drugs are approved for fish by FDA (see Helfrich and Smith 2001), but some medicated feeds for sick fish are available. Although using medicated feeds is one of the easiest ways to treat fish, they must be used early and quickly because sick fish frequently will stop feeding.Managing Fish Wastes
The most important rule in fish nutrition is to avoid overfeeding. Overfeeding is a waste of expensive feed. It also results in water pollution, low dissolved oxygen levels, increased biological oxygen demand, and increased bacterial loads. Usually, fish should be fed only the amount of feed that they can consume quickly (less than 25 minutes). Many growers use floating (extruded) feeds in order to observe feeding activity and to help judge if more or less feed should be fed.
For example, out of 100 units of feed fed to fish, typically about 10 units of feed are uneaten (wasted) and 10 units of solid and 30 units of liquid waste (50% total wastes) are produced by fish. Fish that have parasites are highly contagious and must be separated from the other fish in your aquarium. The infected fish must be treated and the fish tank they were in must be throughly disinfected. Some of the more common parasites that can affect your tropical fish are:
1. Fish lice: These lice attach to the fish and will turn almost the same color as its host. Your fish will rub up against things in the fish tank, trying to rid itself of the lice.
2. Anchor Worm: The females of this parasite have an anchor shaped head (hence the name) that will bury into the flesh of the fish. 3. Leeches: A wormlike parasite that attaches to both ends of the fish. Skin flukes cause localized swelling and sores.
You will see raised white spots on your fish about the size of a grain of salt. Taking good care of your fish with proper nutrition and maintaining your aquarium goes a long way to keeping your fish healthy.

Insurance as we all know is a type of " risk management" mainly done to evade any sort of risks of prospective monetary loss. However, there are different types of insurance related to matters other than financial-for example different pet insurances to care of your pets. Among these, pet care insurance or pet health care insurance, is the most common type
Here, some amount is paid to the person, whose pet falls ill or suffers any accident. The pet owner generally has to pay some amount for any claim called premium.
Mostly, these types of insurances are available for cats and dogs only. Sometimes special insurances are also offered for horses. Pet insurance has now become the fastest growing form of insurance in the market as it helps us to get the best care for our pet and also helps us to get ready, beforehand for any sort unanticipated emergencies.
No Longer a Dog's Day! Dog Health Insurance
A dog is definitely a man's best friend. And being his friend, a dog is now entitled to a lot of privileges like grooming salons, play pens, and now, dog health insurance. Health insurance for dogs work similar that of a person's.
The insurance pays for the dog's necessary treatments like surgeries, x-rays, laboratories, and a whole lot of others. So if you want to ensure that your dogs are robust and well at all times, get an insurance policy just right for them.
The Different Types of Dogs Health Insurance
Dog Life Insurance
A dog life insurance normally covers all the veterinary bills that arise in the instance that the dog became very ill and may eventually die. This type of insurance may also covers the death of the dog due to accidents. This type of insurance policy covers most illnesses including cancer, cardiovascular, respiratory, and digestive ailments. Dog Health Insurance
Dog health care insurance provides for the lifetime health maintenance needed by the dog. Some insurers also cover the dog's annual examination and even flea control prescription.
Dog Bite Insurance
The law requires dog owners to avail of an insurance that provides coverage for all the injuries that can be inflicted by their pets. This is to protect both the dog owner and the injured party against possible dog attacks.
Dog Accident Insurance
This is the simplest dog insurance created. Under this policy, dogs are covered against accidents like ingestion of foreign bodies, accidents caused by motor vehicles, bone fractures caused by other things aside from a moving vehicle, ingestion of poison, lacerations, burns allergic reactions, insect bites, and stings.
1. Comprehensive Dog Insurance
This is the ultimate type of all dog insurances. This includes everything that a dog may need, from health maintenance to accidents, animal bites to life coverage. Recovery costs spent to locate the dog in the incident that it became lost is also covered. This type of dog insurance may cost relatively higher than the others. But then again, this covers your dog against almost everything.
What Is Pet Sitting Insurance?
A pet sitting insurance insures entrepreneurs who have set up their own dog-sitting and dog-walking business. The insurance covers every aspect of their work, from picking
up the dog at the dog owners’ home to actually walking the dog. A pet sitter’s insurance is unavoidable and necessary, and can prove to be priceless if (albeit unlikely) a dog sustains an injury, gets caught up in an accident or worse during the time that the dog sitter is watching the animal.
Who Can Take This Insurance?
The insurance can be taken out by pet walking and pet sitting businesses, dog walkers and individuals working as dog sitters and dog walkers. Anyone working with dogs, caring for them in the place of their owners and walking them can make use of this insurance. Accidents can happen during a walk, the dog can break free from its leash and run off, cross a road and a car may have to break or because of the dog crossing the road, bumps into another car or object.

The car is damaged and eventually the dog is to blame. In this case the owner or caretaker of the dog is to blame, being you. Any harm or injury and damage caused by the pet in your care can be claimed against you by pet owners or the general public. A pet sitting business insurance will help you by taking care of these claims, providing that you did a proper job.
The Advantages of This Insurance Policy
A pet sitting insurance offers a lot of safety for a little money every month.
Bodily Injuries are Insured
If the dog causes any injury you could be held accountable for the damages.
BY chance if your dog gets upset or annoyed with a mail carrier who enters your compound and decides to attack him or her and bite the person, the costs of medical care and damages could be claimed with your insurance company.
This necessary damage, in the benefit of the animal, is covered in the insurance policy.

Damage done to any items belonging to the owner of the dog while the animal is in your care and injuries sustained by the animal during transport is covered totally with any decent pet sitters insurance.

Summer is a time for both you and your pet to enjoy the sunshine and outdoors, but along with the fun, the season also offers up situations that can endanger your pet. The HSUS offers these tips for pet owners to keep their furry friends safe this summer:
In nice weather you may be tempted to take your pet with you in the car while you travel or do errands. Dogs and cats can't perspire and can only dispel heat by panting and through the pads of their feet. Pets who are left in hot cars even briefly can suffer from heat exhaustion, heat stroke, brain damage, and can even die. To avoid any chance that your pet will succumb to the heat of a car this summer, be sure to play it safe by leaving your pet cool and refreshed at home while you're on the road. And if you do happen to see a pet in a car alone during the hot summer months, alert the management of the store where the car is parked. If the owner does not return promptly, call local animal control or the police department immediately. For more information
Want to help educate others about the dangers of leaving pets in hot cars? During the summer months (May through September) The HSUS has educational posters available for purchase ($3 for 10, $5 for 25) that store managers can post inside their windows to remind shoppers that "Leaving Your Pet in a Parked Car Can be a Deadly Mistake". To order please send a check, your mailing address and the number of posters or flyers that you would like to receive to the following address: HSUS/Hot Cars, 2100 L Street, NW, Washington, DC 20037. Not only can flying debris cause serious injury, but a dog may be unintentionally thrown into traffic if the driver suddenly hits the brakes, swerves, or is hit by another car. Dogs should ride either in the cab (in a crate or wearing a seat belt harness designed for dogs) or in a secured crate in the bed of the truck.
With people and dogs spending more time outside, dog bites are likely to increase in the summer months. Make sure your pet is always wearing a collar and identification tag. If you are separated from your pet, an ID tag may very well be his or her ticket home.
Check with your veterinarian to see if your pets should be taking heartworm prevention medication. Heartworm disease, which is transmitted by mosquitoes, can be fatal in both dogs and cats.
Pets and pools can equal disaster. Prevent free access to pools and always supervise a pet in a pool.
Provide plenty of water and shade for your pets while they're enjoying the great outdoors so they can stay cool.
If you plan on traveling with your pet during the summer, take the time to prepare for your furry friends in advance. Many airlines have summer pet embargoes, and most trains and ships do not allow pets other than service animals. Pets need exercise even when it is hot, but extra care needs to be taken with older dogs, short-nosed dogs, and those with thick coats. Keep in mind that asphalt gets very hot and can burn your pet's paws.
Another summertime threat is fleas and ticks. Use only flea and tick treatments recommended by your veterinarian. Pets can get sunburned too, and your pet may require sunscreen on his or her nose and ear tips. Pets with light-colored noses or light-colored fur on their ears are particularly vulnerable to sunburn and skin cancer.
Don't take your pets to crowded summer events such as concerts or fairs. The loud noises and crowds, combined with the heat, can be stressful and dangerous for pets. For your pet's well being, leave her at home. In summer heat your pet can suffer from heat exhaustion and heat stroke. These conditions are very serious and could cause your pet to die. You should be aware of the signs of heat stress, which could include heavy panting, glazed eyes, a rapid pulse, unsteadiness, a staggering gait, vomiting, or a deep red or purple tongue. If your pet does become overheated, you need to immediately lower his body temperature. Move your pet into the shade and apply cool (not cold) water over his body to gradually lower his core body temperature. Apply cold towels or ice packs to your pet's head, neck, and chest only. Let your pet drink small amounts of water or lick ice cubes. YOU should not forget that as you search for your dog,cat ,horse or pet care you should also
Search for your health care as there are many infectious diseases jumping from animals to human
Why Are So Many Infectious Diseases Jumping From Animals To Humans?
There is growing awareness that the majority of emerging pathogens in the world are coming from wildlife. In addition to describing integrative approaches to studying primate infectious diseases, the article provides standardized, step-by-step guidelines for properly gathering and storing feces, blood and other specimens from wild primates for laboratory analysis.
"By giving researchers from a range of disciplines standardized guidelines for collecting data, and integrating that data across sites, we can build a baseline for patterns of primate disease. Gillespie's co-authors on the Yearbook of Physical Anthropology article were Charles Nunn, a biological anthropologist at Harvard University; and Fabian Leendertz a virologist at the Robert Koch Institute and Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology in Germany.
Risk of Primate, Human Pathogen Exchanges Up
The specialized field of primate disease ecology began around 1999, when the global HIV/AIDS pandemic was traced definitively to SIV-1 from chimpanzees. While HIV/AIDS and Ebola are the two most dramatic examples of human diseases linked to primates, many other viral, bacterial, fungal and parasitic pathogens found in apes and monkeys are readily transmissible to humans. Recent studies have also shown that potential pathogens are passing from people and domestic animals to primates, bolstering suspicions that primate epidemics of polio, measles and respiratory diseases came from humans.
"The close genetic relationship between wild primates and people, coupled with growing human activity in forests, is increasing the opportunities for the exchange of pathogens," Gillespie says.
One of Gillespie's current research projects, funded by the National Geographic Society, is tracking the ecology of pathogens among people and wild primates at logging sites in the Republic of Congo. The project is gathering data to support sustainable logging methods, as well as to protect the health of people and animals.
Integrated Research Key to Interventions
Gillespie is among the founding scientists of the Great Ape Health Monitoring Unit, a cooperative effort of the United Nations, academic institutions and non-governmental organizations. The unit strives to integrate research from anthropologists, health professionals, biologists, ecologists and other scientists who are studying wild primates in remote locales with the work of lab-based scientists and computer modelers.
"We want to reduce the risks of a pathogen jumping from animals to people and vice-versa," Gillespie says.

Flea control
Whoever said getting rid of fleas is easy needs to re-think again. In my experience, flea control can be quite challenging when confronted with flea infestation, flea bites, or fleas on pets.
Flea control is and can be effected by:
* climate changes
Fact is, fleas never discriminate. There are so many methods of getting rid of fleas...
Which Flea Control method(s) to use?
You can go either way by using either natural flea killers or by opting for a more aggressive alternative... chemical solutions. Both of these flea control methods have pro's and cons. It's really a case of discovering what's right for you, your house or your beloved pet.
I definitely recommend booking an appointment with your local vet. You can of course try your own hand at flea control and save quite a bit of money on professional services. My Personal Flea Control Tip
So, your beloved pet has fleas! First course of action... Right now, you're probably really worried, almost to the point of frustration at the very sight of your pet itching like crazy as fleas settle down to a healthy meal of fresh, warm blood.
I've faced the very same questions and after trying umpteen different products as a pet owner, the one that really stood out from the rest (in terms of results), was Advantage Flea Control.
Enough has been said, written and publicized about Advantage Flea Control without me having to blow the trumpet also.
In short, when faced with the challenge of controlling fleas on your pet, I highly recommend you give Advantage a try.
It will kill fleas on adult pets as well as puppies and kittens... however; do refer to the instructions on the packaging and if in doubt, refer to your local vet for more specific advice.
In the near future, I will add a forum where we can all share our flea control tips. This way we'll help each other to keep happier, healthier pets...
After all, there's nothing better than happy pets!

Flea control
New once-a-month flea products from your veterinarian work well enough and fast enough that even if you have a heavy flea infestation, you won't need to fumigate your house or spray the yard. Simply treat your your pets. Fleas jump on pets, fleas die.
Revolution
Applied to the skin like Frontline or Advantage, Revolution i kills fleas and also prevents heartworms. It is easy to use, highly effective, and less expensive than using a monthly flea product in addition to a monthly heartworm product. We usually recommend Revolution in preference to the alternatives, especially for cats.
Frontline
Frontline is one of the most effective flea medication we've got and unfortunately one of the more expensive. Frontline Plus contains (S)-methoprene, an ingredient that prevents reproduction by fleas that aren't killed by Frontline alone.
Because Frontline depends on natural skin oils to spread itself around, it's best to wait about two days after bathing before applying the product and avoid bathing or swimming for a couple of days afterwards.
When used monthly, Frontline does a decent job of controlling ticks and is the only satisfactory product for tick control in cats.
Frontline spray
Frontline Spray works the same as Frontline Top Spot. For cats and small dogs, Frontline spray is also much less expensive. Using Frontline spot treatment for cats costs about twelve dollars a month; the spray costs about a dollar- a huge difference. Frontline Spray is the least expensive way to effectively control fleas on cats and small dogs.
Advantage
Advantage is easy to use, can be applied any time and works quickly.
Comfortis
Comfortis is a once-a-month pill for flea control in dogs. It circulates in the bloodstream and kills fleas when they bite. Comfortis is a relatively new product but early indicate that it's highly effective. Some dogs object to the taste, and some dogs vomit after it is administered, but Comfortis is the only monthly flea product that stays entirely within the dog - you and your family are not exposed.
Vectra
Vectra is a once-a-month spot treatment used for flea and tick control in dogs and flea control in cats. Dog Vectra and cat Vectra are different products, but both have the same flea control ingredient. If Frontline isn't working well, Vectra or Comfortis would be good choices.
Vectra is a non-prescription drug, but the manufacturer insists that veterinarians sign a contract promising not to provide the product to web sites for resale. Hartz Control, Bio-Spot, Sargeant's Pretect, Zodiac Spot-on, Powerspot, and Defy all contain permethrin, an insecticide that has been used for many years as a flea spray. When used to prevent a flea problem, they work ok. If your pet already has fleas, get Frontline, which work better and may be less toxic than permethrin. Advantage and Frontline are safe for cats and puppies, these other products are not.
Program and Sentinel: Flea birth control
Program for flea control
A monthly flea control pill for dogs or once-every-six-months flea control injection for cats.
Pets receiving Program secrete the drug into the natural oils on their skin and fleas living on the skin absorb the drug. These fleas lay sterile eggs, but in other respects live full and happy lives. The female flea will still live about three weeks and suck blood two or three times a day. This makes Program an acceptable drug for pets that do not already have fleas and have little exposure to fleas.
The main benefit from using Program is that it controls fleas without continuous insecticide exposure for your family and pets. The main problem with Program is that when pets receiving it are exposed to fleas, they get fleas. This tends to make pets, pet owners, and veterinarians very unhappy.
Injection or pill, Program costs about the same as Advantage or Frontline.
Sentinel : for flea and heartworm Control
Sentinel contains two drugs: Interceptor, for heartworm control, and Program, for flea control. Sentinel costs about the same as using the two drugs separately, but if your dog needs both, it is slightly more convenient than giving two separate pills. My comments about Program apply equally to Sentinel
Traditional flea control products
Flea spray and powder:
Frontline Spray works ten times better, it is safer, and for small pets costs about the same.
Flea dip
Not safe for cats, but flea dip is a perfectly reasonable choice for big dogs, which are expensive to treat with other products. You need to dip the entire dog, nose to tail, every three weeks throughout flea season. Dip is a waste of time for small dogs, since Frontline spray is cheaper, more effective, and easier to use.
Flea Collars
Flea collars are still an economical and useful method of flea control when used before you see fleas. If your pet is already itchy, it is too late for collars.
Many flea collars kill adult fleas and also make flea eggs sterile. Many people, including myself, don't like the smell of flea collars or the smell and oily feeling the insecticide leaves on their hands after petting a dog wearing one.
Why are fleas still biting my ankles?
The flea life cycle:
Fleas and butterflies have the same life cycle: egg, caterpillar, cocoon, adult. The adult female lives its three week life on the dog, sucking blood two or three times and laying twenty or thirty eggs each day. Flea pupae, protected in their cocoons, are invincible. Use Revolution, Advantage or Frontline for your pets. Fleas will hatch, jump on the pet and quickly die.
Natural flea control methods
Natural or non insecticidal flea control methods, such as flea combs, eucalyptus oil, sonic collars, flea traps, brewer's yeast etc. are not very effective.
Flea Prevention Made Simple
Have you ever seen a flea? Have you ever seen your dog itching and scratching like crazy? If so then you have at least seen some of the discomfort that fleas can cause your dog. Many dogs do not seem to have flea problems but that does not mean they should not be on a flea control program.
Many dogs are allergic to flea bites and may have a reaction so why take the chance. A ton of great flea control products are available from your veterinarian and from the local pet supply store. For more severe flea issues there are flea dips and prescription medications.
Oh, so you say that you know your dog is not allergic to flea bites? Even if they are not allergic to flea bites harm can still happen. Here are a few of the disgusting results of continuous exposure to fleas. Fleas seek blood and continuous exposure can actually result in long term blood loss and possibly anemia.
If you need help in the flea elimination department just contact your vet is very knowledgeable and will be able to help you with the decision of what program to use.

In many areas, winter is a season of bitter cold and numbing wetness. The Humane Society of the United States urges pet owners to take extra precautions this winter to ensure the safety of their companion animals.
"Animals rely solely on their human caregivers for safety and comfort — especially during the winter months," said Stephanie Shain, director of companion animal outreach for The HSUS. Help your pets remain happy and healthy during the colder months by following these simple guidelines.
Don't leave dogs outdoors when the temperature drops. Most dogs, and all cats, are safer indoors, except when taken out for exercise. Regardless of the season, shorthaired, very young, or old dogs and all cats should never be left outside without supervision. Short-coated dogs may feel more comfortable wearing a sweater during walks.
No matter what the temperature, windchill can threaten a pet's life. A dog or cat is happiest and healthiest when kept indoors. If your dog is an outdoor dog, however, he/she must be protected by a dry, draft-free doghouse that is large enough to allow the dog to sit and lie down comfortably, but small enough to hold in his/her body heat. Routinely check your pet's water dish to make certain the water is fresh and unfrozen. Use plastic food and water bowls rather than metal; when the temperature is low, your pet's tongue can stick and freeze to metal.
Warm engines in parked cars attract cats and small wildlife, who may crawl up under the hood. The salt and other chemicals used to melt snow and ice can irritate the pads of your pet's feet. Wipe the feet with a damp towel before your pet licks them and irritates his/her mouth.
Wipe up spills and store antifreeze (and all household chemicals) out of reach. Better yet, use antifreeze-coolant made with propylene glycol; if swallowed in small amounts, it will not hurt pets, wildlife, or your family.
Probably the best prescription for winter's woes is to keep your dog or cat inside with you and your family. Dogs and cats are social animals who crave human companionship. Your animal companions deserve to live indoors with you and your family.
Winter Dog Coats - Is Your Dog Ready For A Cold Winter?Some dogs do have very thick fur and seem to do fine in cold. Some breeds come from cold climates and therefore have thicker, longer fur. Others come from hot climates and have thinner, shorter fur. Just as the dog breeds from hot and mild climates need some
sort of help to keep them warm, breeds from cold
climates should use some help in hot climates to help them
adapt. There are ways to assure that your dog stays warm in the
winter. 2. If your pet stays outside you can provide a dog house or
shelter area where there will be dry bedding materials and
even heaters.
3. Provide clothing for your pet. This option is actually
growing in popularity.
Whereas once it was
rare to see dogs with sweaters or winter coats, it now seen
more often. Now, if you walk yours with a coat or sweater
you aren't looked upon as some sort of eccentric pet owner.
Just a pet owner who cares about the comfort of their dog.
Plus there are more and more choices available for pet
owners when it comes to pet clothing. Companies who
specialize in just making pet clothing are created every
year. Now, yours can complement you and together you can
make a fashion statement along with keeping your pet warm
and healthy. So, think about your pet and realize that just because a dog
has fur, it doesn't mean they will not get cold and suffer
during the winter. Keep your dog warm.